Micro-T Chassis How-To Part #3 Options

[The Cow]

I got all the pics taken so its off to bed for me! I hope to get it written and posted tommorow if all goes well

Here is a few pics in the meantime I am seriously pooped!

Heath

[acerpower]

looks sweet.
i can't wait for the rest of it.

[JOEYBLAZE]

how long is that thing, is it longer then DT?

[The Cow]

how long is that thing, is it longer then DT?

This chassis is extended 10mm from a stock DT platform Writing the meat and potatoes now

Heath

[TyHodge]

looks pretty good, nice cutting too. looks like a clean job.

[Jughead]

Nice Heath! Glad to see your getting to work on my Christmas present!

[The Cow]

Before I begin I just want to say thanks to everyone who has been patiently awaiting this last part It has been a long time coming and I can hope it will have been worth the wait my friends! there should be no shortage of pics In part #3 and should be up and complete this evening.... Maybe SOONER

In the Micro-T Chassis How-To Part #1 we covered the neccassary supplies and tools, how to choose our goals with this chassis, and how to help to taylor the material choices and thickness to help achieve these goals.

In the Micro-T Chassis How-To Part #2 we covered measuring and cutting the top and bottom chassis plates based on our laid out goals. When we last left off we had our plates created.



Now while your plates may be different from ^above^ depending on what you are trying to accomplish as far as performance and the size demands of your mounted electronics the process we will cover here in part #3 will be same. With that said...

Lets get down to bussiness!

Heath

Micro-T Chassis How-To Part #3

If you guys have any questions at all please dont hesitate to ask

Our goals in part #3 will be....

1. Diesect the stock chassis in order to utilize the front bulkhead and the rear shock tower mount.
2. Extend the mounting holes in the stock chassis pieces through both sides in order to be able to mount both our top and bottom plates while still maintaining the integrity of the screw holes (If you are utilizing a bottom plate only this step will be skipped)
3. Place screw holes correctly and as straight as possible in our new chassis plates so they will mount properly and on axis to our new CF chassis plates
4. To assemble the main chassis structure

Now you may remember from Part #2 we took the time to ensure the top and bottom plates are easily able to be lined up to each other due to the smiliar outer edges. and that the outer edges are perfectly parrallal to each other!



I would double check to make sure this is exact, If not it will effect the integrity of the chassis as we will be doing all the hard work on the bottom plate first and the simply transfering the needed holes to the top plate

Sit the top plate aside for now and grab your stock chassis and bottom CF plate.



Keep in mind any micro chassis whether it is a T-B-DT will work here. You will notice the one I am using was modified in many ways but since the only areas we are concerned with are the front bulkead and rear tower mount as long as they are in good shape we are good to go.

We will cut the rear portion off first. While I have done this many times I still mark the area I plan to use to avoid any confusion once I start hacking. It is important to remember to always take off less then nessaccary and file and sand the remainder off. Once you go to far it is over and you will need to start over so mark the area first!

Here you can see I used some white out to do the markings but you could use anything... an exacto, a permenant marker, it really makes no difference. I used the white out (a white paint pen would be preffered) since that is what was nearby at the time and it is also easily removable once dry.

rear shock tower mount:



Front bulk head



Cutting the rear portion

Basically the goal here is to use this portion as it was intended while also using it as our between top and bottom plates spacer. This will be altered in different ways as we go but in order for everything to work properly it is very important you follow these steps in order. If one is missed or skipped it will effect each step in line. Once done with each step make sure it is proper before moving to the next one.

The stock plastics are quite soft. While it can be cut directly with an exacto I like to use some sharp snippers first. By using the snippers you will help to avoid any slipping or misguided cuts with the exacto. (we will use the exacto later along with files and sand paper) The idea here is to get a ruf-cut seperating the desired pieces. This piece basically consists of the two tower mounting holes (top to bottom) and everything in between. I will usually make my cuts 1/16" or so larger then neccasary

First I like to cut off the rear portion and tranny mount.... Notice I am cutting it dead center in the bottom shock tower screw hole. it is very important not to cut this entirely of the piece at this time as we will need it for future reference!!!



You should now have this. Notice that the bottom shock srew hole is still easily markable on the remaining piece! Take this rear portion and sit it to the side for later use (this will make a perfect template for the tranny holes later)



Next we will want to cut out the entire piece from the chassis. notice how I have cut out signifigantly more then neccassary.



Now sit this on the side as well and lets get to cutting out the bulkhead and steering assembly

cutting the front portion

When cutting this piece we will want to remove every thing from the front most 4 screw holes back. This is very important as the front most holes are utilized for the top bulkhead plate and the back 2nd set of srew holes will be utilized to mount our upper chassis tray too. Make sure to cut behind these holes other wise ther ewill be nothing to mount our upper tray to, Dont laugh; I have made this exact mistake when not paying attention so always double check your cuts prior to making them final!



Now that we have double checked let do a little chop chop



You should be left with this... Again notice how I have left a good amount of extra plastic to be removed later



Now many people like to remove the innards and bottom as well... I personally would not. My reasoning is this. by retaining the inner peices it will make the servo placement much easier as the guide will still be present. This also adds durabilty in crashes since the servo is resting on the ineer wall as shown below and the bottom adds alot of structural integrity to the piece as a whole. if you cut it out it is esentially held in shape buy the screws...



Now you may be thinking but that will leave the servo sitting off balance since the rear portion will be on the chassis and the front will be slightly higher on the plastic bulkhear. Well depending on how you mount your servo this will not be the case. On these microsnot to mention all of my veh I use generally only servo tape.... The servo tape is the same approximate thickness as seen below so it works out well. Also keep in mind buy mounting the tray below you are efectivly lowering the vah the thickness of the chassis so this may or may not work for your goals! If you do not wish to lower it you will need to take the entire bottom off as well any additional amount nessasary to equal the thickness of the bottom plate. I do not reccomend this as the integrity of the piece will suffer drastically



Getting the pieces prepped and looking nice

First step I like to take is with some sandpaper... Notice I am working over a hard flat surface and not in my hand. By sanding against the hard flat surface it will help to ensure a good level sanding job!



The plastic is pretty soft so an ultra fine grit will not work if at all. I find 200 grit to work well. The idea will be to get the piece down to the proper size and to round all the edges while not damaging the needed areas.



With out the board this would take alot more effort and risk of damage too... does it look straight?



If so then take your fine file and finish of the edges..... they should look like this when done.



Keep in mind the finer the file you use the less chaffey it will apear. I could have done a much better job but was not neccassary here for the thread. Another little trick is to use a small butane tourch. Just lightly warming the effected area with out any direct focused heat will bring a sheen back to the sanded-filed plastic! (an old car audio fab trick i learned)

Once happy with the front bulhead we will want to follow the same process for the rear shock mount. Once done it should look something like this... Notice I have not yet removed the bottom shock tower screw marker!!!



Extending the mounting holes through the other side of the donated pieces

There is alot of ways to do this. I will show you what I have found to be the easiest and most reliable while still maintianing the integrity of the hole's threads. Keep in mind when proceeding here It is of the utmost importance not to strip these... If stripped again you will be out of luck If you want things to remain looking "factory"

I like to take an extra Micro-T tranny screw... The long one that inserts from one side of the tower and extends through the transmision and threads into the motor mount. We will use this screw for a few reasons that I will explain in a moment. Take the srew and begin threading it into one of the six holes that will need to be extended through the donated pieces



Now if you notice the screw is only threaded half way and the top unthreaded area is thiner then the threads. This is ideal for a few reasons.... We will esentially be screwing this straight though, The plastic is very soft so there will be no issues with it threading through to the other side if you proceed very slow and keeping adequate pressure on it.... Since the top is not threaded you will not damage the upper inner hole threads if it takes a second to thread or catch the thread through the other side. Continue threading untill the screw exits a few mm out the bottom. It should look like this



Slowly back it out and cut the remaining streched nib off with your exacto knife... Once doing all four it should look like this



We will want to repeat these steps for the rear shock mount as well....



Again back out the screws, chop the nibs and it should look like this (notice we still have not chopped the rear bottom shock mount marker off yet)



Well at this piont we have gotten all the nessassary parts together and tapped our holes through the chassis parts. The next step will be to tap our hole into the chassis pieces. I cannot stress the importance of making sure this is spot on! I will share some tricks with you guys to ensure this is the case but make sure to check, recheck, and extra check before tapping any holes. Also remember the outer most sides of the bottom trays have already been made perfectly parallel so these will be our reference pionts to ensure our parts will be mounting perfectly perpendicular to them as well as the center line you should still have marked out on your tape. Due to the small scale even the slightest umpteenth of a degree off and your micro will forever be pulling Left or right or neccesitate steering adjustments by controller in order to bandaid the issue.

This is what I have found to be the easiest method when We have a different shaped chassis from the stocker. If you happen to be making an exact copy just in carbon fiber then you could simply take a micro drill bit and while holding the new plate and unaltered stock chassis together and tapping the holes straight though. Just make sure to use a drill bitt small enough to go through the threaded holes and not damage its integrity.

Aligning the screw holes on the chassis

I like to make a screw hole template with a simple post it. Stickie side up I place the bulk head at the end as shown



Next we will trace the outside so we know exactly where it sits



Next flip the paper and attached bulkhead over and carfully and accurately mark the holes with an exacto by spinning it so you mark the exact placement of it as shown



Next we will do the same thing with the tranny template we saved earlier



trace then mark your holes on the opposite side



Now you should be left with 2 templates looking like this



We will need to find and mark the exact center as shown



Now if you remember we had marked the center pionts on the chassis... Yours should still retain the blue tape as I had only removed it to show em off to you guys...



You will use the line to line them up properly and the and the post it will hold itself to the chassis! make sure to get them lined up perfectly before tapping the holes. I like to use a 1/32" drill bit for my pilot holes and a 3/64" to follow them up with so the screw will fit properly and be anchored by the head. keep in mind if you like you could go one step further and bevel the holes so the screw will sit flat.

Drill bits this small can be hard to have the drill chuck tighten down on so I like to wrap them with some very tight electrical tape as shown



Then insert in the chuck



When drilling the pilot holes I like to hold the pieces together to ensure the bit does not travel and each hole is accurately spaced... Remember to keep it dead center!!



Once tapped it should look like this



Now we can go back and open the holes with 3/64 just be very carefull not to let the hole wonder.
You will want to follow the same procedure for the rear and should end up like this...



NExt step will be to prepare the correct hight for the rear shock tower support. In order to get started install the transmision and rear shock tower onto the bottom plate as shown...



Now if you try to insert the rear shock tower support you will notice it is a mm or two to high. so we will need to shave it down to the proper height. This is easy to do with an exacto nife. I usually sit it in place upside down mark the cutting piont and take it off with the knife. Make sure if anything to take off to little then to much. it can always be shaved down but will not fit correctly if you take off to much




once the proper height has been obtained insirt in place making sure the shock tower mounting holes and holes in the piece line up and it is a good proper fit



Now hold the pieces together and insirt your drill with the 1/32" bit to tap the holes through the bottom of the chassis. remember to pay close attention so nothing moves and you do not harm the upper threads



Remove the piece and retap the new holes with the 3/64" bit. You should be left with this



We will need to remove all parts in order to transfer the appropriate holes to the top plate. Grab the 2 blank plates and center them. I like to tape them as well so they can not move what so ever.



Once properly aligned use your drill to to tap the front 2 and rear 2 holes in order to properly mount them.



At this piont the construction is done! Lets see how she looks...........






HOPE YOU LIKE HER

Dont hesitate to ask any questions my friends

Heath

[azwag]

looking good man, can't wait to see the finished product!

[The Cow]

Updated and ready for Jugs christmas party Hope this will help some you micro finatics!

Heath

[TyHodge]

thats a really good write up on cutting the parts needed from the stock chassis. thats gonna be very helpful for others. great job on it.

[JOEYBLAZE]

well done bro. i never used the rear shock tower support as i needed the sapce for my 400KANpack, but in this size def worth it, its def a good step........

great job

[Micr-Ze]

very clean hand made job ... and full of good advices thx !!!

[The Cow]

Thanks for the many kind words my friends I know the write up is long but it really is a snap once your familiar with it and only takes a short while to chop the chassis and prep it! I hope this will come in handy for you all and I hope to see some pics popping up of your own creations That is the ultimate payback for me! You guys truly make all the time and editing so worth it!

There was a time I was just so in the dark with R/C and it was the forums and the people willing to help lend thier ears and time that enabled me to learn and do things in a smart way! I could never be where I am today with out the forums and in a HUGE part of course TheToyz forum in paticular!

Heath

[Crumps]

Just ordered my carbon sheets. Trying to rustle up all the stuff I need to build micro 4 wheel drive. Without all this step by step stuff I would be in the dark. Great job keep it up.

[Kuppler]

Heath,
Looks Killer Bro........ cant wait to see it all finished....

[hs5015]

this is awesome heath! very detailed!!

how about making me one then i will review it for you

[Alvis]

Thanks for the many kind words my friends I know the write up is long but it really is a snap once your familiar with it and only takes a short while to chop the chassis and prep it! I hope this will come in handy for you all and I hope to see some pics popping up of your own creations That is the ultimate payback for me! You guys truly make all the time and editing so worth it!

There was a time I was just so in the dark with R/C and it was the forums and the people willing to help lend thier ears and time that enabled me to learn and do things in a smart way! I could never be where I am today with out the forums and in a HUGE part of course TheToyz forum in paticular!

Heath

Hello Cow

this is what really is a good part of this Hobby, and thanks to let me know a bit of what you know.
this forum has some very special people and ought to make a sub section in it so al can dip in that pool of knowlage

Al the best

[bart408bbb]

cow it looks sweet !







adam

[madmax22]

I killed a stock chassis doing this lmao! I didnt cut the front right... Beautiful chassis cow, i would have made the upper plate thinner, then wider to save a little weight but then the ESC and RX would hang off...

[Crumps]

Thanks a bunch Cow for this TuT. This thread has helped me out so much on my ongoing build projects. Hope this Bump will inspire others to think outside of the box and come up with a micro that blows everybody on the forums away.