RC-Christo

Are There Still Associated Rc18T Enthusiasts ?

38 posts in this topic

Greetings everyone!

I am a new member to this forum. I was recently searching google to find forums which still discusses the RC18, there are very few.

I am a huge fan of this car and was curious to see if there are other enthusiasts who still use this model. The RC18T is quite a few years old now but in my opinion is still relevant as a killer RC to have.

I have been running a modified RC18T since they first came out in 2004-2005. In March of this year, I decided to build a completely new machine from the ground up. It is my most extensive attempt to date at custom building my idea of the ultimate RC18T using new components I have fabricated as well as stock and aftermarket parts.

I have a blog called PROJECT RC which discusses this custom build in detail, that I thought may interest other RC18T enthusiats. It is a work in progress. There are also other articles besides the RC18T build. Feel free to check it out and comments are most welcome.

PROJECT RC Home page: https://projectrcblog.wordpress.com

RC18T Custom Build: https://projectrcblog.wordpress.com/2015/03/05/2/

DSC_8708_colourfixcrop_wmProj-RC-2015_65

There are links at the bottom of the blog article page to direct you to the various build details.

Cheers,
RC-Christo

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That's a very nice RC18T you have.

My RC18 still gets plenty of use.

IMG_20150516_093320_107_zps5amwc70z.jpg

And the most recent body I've been running.

IMG_20150401_135635_886_zpsh2dhbyod.jpg

I run a 7800kv motor on 3s Li-po most of the time.

The drivetrain is nearly indestructible with my steal diff and output gears, and steel MIP "Superdiff" out drives.

Out of my many RC kits, the RC18 still gets run the most.

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Thank you for the kind words acerpower :)

Great to see another enthusiast of the RC18T! I love mine. I am eager to finish the build of my new one.

That Lambo shell looks great :) Who is the manufacturer of it, and what scale is it for?

What BL system are you running? What spur/pinion combo are you using?

I have mixed feelings about the steel diff and output gears based on a previous build. Did you have fitment issues?

I am the same, my RC18T gets the most drive time by far, out of all my RCs. So simple, yet so much performance from such a small package.

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Thanks.

The body is from R2 hobbies and its 1/18 scale made to fit the Xray M18, or HPI Micro RS4.

I originally picked it up for my M18, but I needed a new lid on my RC18 and wasn't in the mood to paint a clear one I already had.

It took a bit of trimming, but it works.

The motor is a Tacon 7800kv, and ESC is a Hobbywing 25amp.

I had a 6800kv castle Sidewinder combo in it originally, but wanted to see how fast I could push it.

I'm running 12/55t pinion/spur, which can get a bit hot if I don't keep an eye on it.

The steel diff gears have been working great since I first installed them.

As I recall, I did have to do a little work to them to get them to fit with the MIP out drives.

The gear mesh was fine though, and they've held up fine for almost 7 years now since I first installed them, besides the occasional rebuild.

My kit doesn't have any custom fabricated parts like yours though.

I'm impressed with your ingenuity.

You've done some amazing work to your RC18.

Can't wait to see what will come next.

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Thanks for the reply there acerpower :)

Yep I have bought some great stuff from R2 Hobbies in the past, I think though that they are closing down, or already have closed down, which is a shame because they had a great range of shells. I know what you mean about painting bodies...can be so time consuming.

I have heard some good things about those Tacon BL motors and the Hobbywing ESC. I read your thread 'acers18' your setup must really have some punch to blow wheels and tires apart. :) Do you use off-road tires much? If so by using the GPM alloy drive adaptors for 1/10 wheels, did you know you can fit Traxass 1/16 SCT wheels and tires? They have a similar diameter to running the standard size RC18T wheel and off-road tire, but I have found them to be more durable, and drive better. Additionally you can belt the insides of the tires with 'Elastoplast' sports injury tape prior to mounting which greatly reduces 'ballooning' , makes them even stronger and give better grip with minimal weight.

In my other RC18T I run a 6800kv too but a Himax, which has performed well with the Castle 25 ESC (No Casing early version). It goes like a missile running a Lipo.

The 12/55T pinion spur you have must give the truck a lot of torque with that motor. Are you running a standard AE plastic spur? My new build will have a 14/60T alloy setup. It will be interesting to see how it performs with the 8200kv 4-pole.

I do like the steel diff gears but I experienced fitment issues with mine which bothers me considering the cost of them, you would expect a perfect fit. But maybe I just have had ones that are not machined properly. The main problem I have had was the small input gear being too loose on the driveshaft. I have read varied feedback regarding those steel gears, some have been able to fit them without any work and some needed to do some work to make them fit.

I had a look at some of your RC18T builds here in the forum. Very nice work!, Great idea using alloy arrow tubes as a diff cup reinforcer. I especially like your blue beetle with the lights. It looks like you have quite a fleet of RC18T's!

Thank you for checking out my build and your kind words :) I appreciate the feedback.

My new RC18T build is a work in progress. The build has progressed more than what is currently published in my blog, but I just have to find the time when I am not working to write and upload the articles and photos.

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I did not know R2 hobbies was closing.

Glad I stocked up on a few bodies for some of my other RCs.

I do have some delrin adaptors that I sometimes use 1/10 touring wheels with.

I'll have to try some Traxxas wheels/tires next.

I've been using Megatech/Propulse wheels and tires that I bought from Radio Shack years ago. They were on clearance for $1 a set, so I stocked up on them while I could.

Out of the 4 sets of steel gears I've installed in my RC18's they have all fit nicely accept for a small modification I had to make to fit them with the MIP out drives.

I used thetoyz brand steel gears rather than the GPM gears, so that might be the difference.

Sadly, the blue beetle body is in rough shape, so I had to retire it.

The beetle was by far my favorite body and I wish I stocked up on them before they were discontinued.

I look forward to seeing your future custom modifications.

Keep up the great work!:)

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Hi.

Another blog update for May... A new blog article has been uploaded in regards to building a Modified steering assembly for the RC18T

https://projectrcblog.wordpress.com/2015/05/26/how-to-build-a-modified-rc18t-steering-assembly/

_DSC0151_wmProj-RC-2015_650x432_zps0j3qb

Feel free to check it out and leave some comments if you wish.

Cheers.

RC Christo

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Greetings!.

Well its been a while since my last update. Work commitments.

A bit late in the month but here is a new article for June... It is slightly off-topic from the RC18T build, but still relevant. It is a 'How To' article about improving the ergonomics of your pistol grip transmitter by fitting bicycle grip tape.

Hopefully I can find some more time this week to upload some new updates of the Modified RC18T build that have been completed.

https://projectrcblog.wordpress.com/2015/06/23/how-to-grip-mod-for-pistol-transmitter/

_DSC0164_wmProj-RC-2015_650x432_zps7ujc6

Feel free to check it out and leave some comments if you wish.

Cheers.
RC Christo

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Loving your build, I'm about to build one from the ground up too.

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Loving your build, I'm about to build one from the ground up too.

Thanks SKiZZ :)

Thats great, are you building an RC18T 1st gen or the RC18T V2?

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Greetings again!

Another new article uploaded for June... How To: Build and Shim an Upgraded RC18T Drivetrain

https://projectrcblog.wordpress.com/2015/06/26/how-to-build-and-shim-an-upgraded-rc18t-drivetrain/

_DSC0259colfix_wmProj-RC-2015_650x432_zp

Feel free to check it out and leave some comments if you wish. :)

Cheers.
RC Christo

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I keep bugging Driven productions to make the gear cover again. They once said they do another run soon, but that was 6 months ago.

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I keep bugging Driven productions to make the gear cover again. They once said they do another run soon, but that was 6 months ago.

I know what you mean, I contacted them also over a year ago. I got fed up waiting so I made my own. In the end the cover that I made actually works better for me than the DP version in that my cover is two separate pieces so the piece that covers the spur and pinion can be easily removed for servicing. Also it is completely clear so you can see the spur and pinion easily.

I have an article in my blog on how to make one if you want to give it a go.

https://projectrcblog.wordpress.com/2015/04/20/component-fabrication-perspex-spur-and-pinion-gear-covers/

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Thanks SKiZZ :)

Thats great, are you building an RC18T 1st gen or the RC18T V2?

First gen with everything titanium, carbon and aluminum. After reading your blog I have a few more things to buy this weekend.

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I'm in the process of rebuilding mine.

After years of abuse my ballbearings were falling apart, and some even seized up all together.

I replaced them with a new full set, but my diffs are still in desperate need of a rebuild.

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First gen with everything titanium, carbon and aluminum. After reading your blog I have a few more things to buy this weekend.

Sounds like a good build SKiZZ :)

I'm not sure if you have already built an RC18T 1st Gen before, but you won't be dissapointed by going for the 1st gen instead of the version 2. The 1st Gen is by far more robust and if built right they are near bulletproof and will last for a long time. In my opinion the solid driveshaft on the 1st gen is far superior than the belt-drive on the version 2, especially for an off-roader. More durable, less complicated, no belt breakages, less rolling resistance. If only AE released a slipper clutch for the solid driveshaft, or if exotek re-released their slipper add-on... This is a bit of a weakness in the 1st Gen.

You should post up some pics of your build :)

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I'm in the process of rebuilding mine.

After years of abuse my ballbearings were falling apart, and some even seized up all together.

I replaced them with a new full set, but my diffs are still in desperate need of a rebuild.

What type of bearings did you install acerpower?

When you rebuild your diffs, are you going to upgrade? I highly recommend the Carbide diff balls combined with some new stock plastic bevel gears as part of an inexpensive rebuild.

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I just used a cheap bearing set from China.

I might try some carbide balls in the riffs this time. I haven't taken them apart yet, but I can feel there is some serious flat spots in the balls when I spin the riffs.

The gears are still in fine shape, so I'm pretty sure I'll reuse them.

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The Carbide balls are great, very durable.

In regards to those flat spots, when you take the diff apart you might find that the 'flat spots' you are feeling are actually grooves worn into the diff plates from the balls. You can do two things, one, flat sand the diff plates until you remove the grooves or two, if the grooves are very deep, flip the plates, but also sand them down to even out the micro surface imperfections. You might find that you may get some more life out of your existing diff balls.

If you want you can check out my article on building an RC18T diff, for some tips on preparing the diff plates and the greases I use.

https://projectrcblog.wordpress.com/2015/05/16/how-to-build-an-upgraded-rc18t-ball-differential/

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Sounds like a good build SKiZZ :)

I'm not sure if you have already built an RC18T 1st Gen before, but you won't be dissapointed by going for the 1st gen instead of the version 2. The 1st Gen is by far more robust and if built right they are near bulletproof and will last for a long time. In my opinion the solid driveshaft on the 1st gen is far superior than the belt-drive on the version 2, especially for an off-roader. More durable, less complicated, no belt breakages, less rolling resistance. If only AE released a slipper clutch for the solid driveshaft, or if exotek re-released their slipper add-on... This is a bit of a weakness in the 1st Gen.

You should post up some pics of your build :)

I'm thinking of a build log if people still do those?

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Greetings again!

Another new article uploaded for June... How To: Build and Shim an Upgraded RC18T Drivetrain

https://projectrcblog.wordpress.com/2015/06/26/how-to-build-and-shim-an-upgraded-rc18t-drivetrain/

_DSC0259colfix_wmProj-RC-2015_650x432_zp

Feel free to check it out and leave some comments if you wish. :)

Cheers.

RC Christo

Do you know the part number for the whole bearing kit for the RC18T from Boca?

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Hi SKiZZ,

Its really up to you whether you do a build log...I personally find it very useful as a reference when rebuilding, modifying, or building a second chassis. If you do decide to do a build log, take photos that are descriptive, not necessarily a lot of photos.

In regards to the BOCA bearing kit, the kit number is: #05-150C-YS

Here is the link: http://www.bocabearings.com/bearing-inventory/8607/rc-car-truck-bearings/ceramic-lightning-yellow-seal/team-associated-rc18t-rtr-1/18-elec-off-road

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Hi SKiZZ,

Its really up to you whether you do a build log...I personally find it very useful as a reference when rebuilding, modifying, or building a second chassis. If you do decide to do a build log, take photos that are descriptive, not necessarily a lot of photos.

In regards to the BOCA bearing kit, the kit number is: #05-150C-YS

Here is the link: http://www.bocabearings.com/bearing-inventory/8607/rc-car-truck-bearings/ceramic-lightning-yellow-seal/team-associated-rc18t-rtr-1/18-elec-off-road

Thanks for the link, I already have sealed bearings so I'm not sure it'll be worth the upgrade unless you can advise otherwise. I tried to get it started this weekend but had a family emergency.

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