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jettrooper02

Official Toyz Members
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About jettrooper02

  • Rank
    Dane
  • Birthday 12/30/1995

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    The pacific northwet
  • Interests
    Scalers and tooling around with RC's when I'm not cycling, skiing, or studying. Living the broke student life.
  1. It's been quite awhile since I've been here. A lot's happened over the last couple years, I've picked up road biking and most of my time is spent on the bike now. I'm a college student working towards an engineering degree, and rarely touch RC's anymore, although that is starting to change as I get my life figured out. I definitely still enjoy this hobby, but time and money make it tough to stay involved. Hopefully I'll get some of my basher friendly rigs back into...

    1. jettrooper02

      jettrooper02

      Well since it seemed to cut things off a bit I'll elaborate on my RC plans a tad. I currently live where it snows in winter, a lot, so my SC10 is probably going to stay at my parents house since it's setup as a racer and I don't want to get it dirty and break tons of stuff on it. It's also my only rig currently in good working order(go figure) but considering it would need waterproof electronics and some upgrades to make it handle bashing duty it doesn't make sense to put...

  2. Long time no see! after a solid year of being away from forums and racing occasionally, I think I'm back into RC again, mostly as a stock short course class racer.

    1. cmnyj28

      cmnyj28

      Welcome Back!!!

      Sometimes time away is good.

  3. You would probably be good for a couple feet underwater. Below 2 feet, and I would be really worried about having any signal. But it probably won't get below 3 feet ever, so you should be good. I drove my honcho in some deep water when I first got it, and it did fine with 2.4. Almost floated away from the lexan shell trapping air though I don't reccomend deliberatly driving any rc underwater like that though, to much money into the rigs to risk letting them float away.
  4. Are you going to underdrive the rear and overdrive the front axle for even tighter steering still? It's looking great so far!
  5. It was a fun comp! but killed my rig, I'm pretty sure I fried my fxr a little on the first ORCRC class 2 course I ran, and then I think I overheated the BEC to the point of shut down on the WARCRC class 2 course I ran, which sucked, because I was actually doing pretty good on that one. Here's some of the pictures that my dad took, I was planning on sticking around to take more for awhile, but after my issues with the fxr, I really didn't want to stick around any longer. I regret that now, but oh well, there's always next year. my favorite shots: and a hint as to what might have damaged my fxr
  6. depending on the interior your after, You don't neeed the lowness of the r2. example: This is my setup, and because it is a bench seat, the top of the axial trains just slides right into the inside of the bench seat. You would need something like the r2 for a fancier interior though.
  7. I'm going to get one, and Might build a prerunner around it if I have the money. I LOVE toyota trucks
  8. Thanks guys! I have been saving for a little bit now, and I do have enough for some silver solder now, I just need to try it with mapp and the torches that we currently have at my house. I tried earlier and it almost worked, and I think it would have if I had put more time into prepping the parts for brazing. I didn't use flux, clean the parts, or fishmouth the ends of the test parts. So I think it is going to go the tuber route. that should be cheaper for me to in the long run, since I'd have less to buy for the thing. Thanks again! It's a huge help to get opinions from other people on this, my mind can just jump so much sometimes on these things, I almost struggle deciding what to do to get it closer to being finished.
  9. So, I'm pretty stuck with my scaler. I can't determine If I want to make a new custom bed for it, or go with the stock tamiya bed. The old bed for it just won't work anymore, not from damage, but wheelbase wise, it isn't long enough and there will be tire rub. I do have some ideas for a tube bed, but without a good brazing set up, I can't braze or weld together anything, which means I have to tap every piece of brake line, which sucks. I do plan on doing that for better sliders, but not if I can buy silver solder and a torch that will work. anyways, here's where you guys come in. What should I do for this? I almost want to do the stock bed for ease of use, and it gets it running, but a part of me screams for the tuber bed still. Thanks for any ideas you have! Here's how it currently sits:
  10. I only recommend an fxr because for me, it made my rig more fun, and the drag brake really helps to keep the truck in place on a hill. Which can happen a lot more than you'd expect
  11. I used mine in my honcho when I first got it. It worked ok for awhile, then I had a bit of an accident during my first G6, and it didn't run right after that, I think. It does suck not having drag brake, my honcho almost took a dive into a crapload of saltwater because of it, which would have been VERY bad. I switched to a tekin fxr after that, it's an incredible difference. I got more power using the fxr to. All the traxxas electronics I've used are a little limited, I don't get full steering with the traxxas radio I have, and the esc limits full power a little bit in my experience. It did get me by for awhile, and I didn't think drag brake was a big deal for that while. Then I tried drag brake, and now I couldn't run without it. To sum it up though, Yeah, it would get you buy for awhile. but only get you buy, it wouldn't be super good.
  12. I also would say to use axial parts. A lot of upgrades available for them, and they are the right width for most scale builds.
  13. 3/16 brake line is the standard scaler tubing. It's a good base, and looks about right scale wise. That's what I plan on using once I get the tools to actually get to building.
  14. A drawing definetly helps. And as I said, I'd rather just go and build it rather than CAD it up, it's a lot more fun that way. And you get to drive the truck sooner.
  15. In all honesty, it's probably easier to do by hand then with inventor. With inventor, you have to desig a skeleton key, or use a sketch to make the tube parts, or sweep the parts manually. I'd rather be bending and cutting and welding/brazing as I go, but I don't have the set ups for that at the moment, so I use CAD to satisfy my building needs temporarily and plan out my build.